Potatoes Rouge des Flandres
Potatoes Rouge des Flandres
Solanum tuberosum Rouge des Flandres
Potato
The Rouge des Flandres potatoes produced no yield; I won't be buying this variety again.
Herve , 15/10/2025
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This plant carries a 6 months recovery warranty
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We guarantee the quality of our plants for a full growing cycle, and will replace at our expense any plant that fails to recover under normal climatic and planting conditions.
Description
The Red Flanders Potato is an old late variety, producing tubers with red skin and flesh. Fairly large, these potatoes with floury flesh are perfect for mashed potatoes or soups. They also make very crispy fries as they tend to absorb less oil when cooked. Plant the tubers from mid-March to May depending on the climate and harvest from 120 to over 150 days after planting.
The potato is a root vegetable that has become essential in the vegetable garden and on the plate. It is a perennial plant grown as an annual, developing tubers as reserve organs on its rootstock. Apart from a few varieties like the Belle de Fontenay, the plants produce small flowers in summer. Each plant will produce several potatoes, which can be stored for several months and cooked in multiple ways. The potato belongs to the Solanaceae family, like eggplants and tomatoes. Originally cultivated in the Andes Mountains, it was brought to Europe in the 16th century.
There are many varieties available. The tubers, which have a more or less elongated shape, generally have yellow flesh, sometimes red, pink, or purple. Low in calories, potatoes are rich in carbohydrates, iron, and potassium.
There are 3 categories of potatoes based on the flesh content:
- Firm flesh varieties have good cooking properties. These potatoes, which are rather elongated in shape, have a fine and tasty flesh. They are ideal for boiling or steaming and can also be stewed or fried.
- Floury flesh varieties are high in starch and easily mashable. Fairly large, these potatoes are perfect for mashed potatoes or soups. They also make very crispy fries as they tend to absorb less oil when cooked.
- Waxy flesh varieties have a melting texture while retaining their shape when cooked. They can be used in various ways: fried, stewed, or baked.
Harvesting: depending on the varieties and their maturity, potatoes can be harvested from May to October. Gently lift the plants with a fork to avoid damaging the tubers. Let the potatoes dry in the sun for a day.
Storage potatoes should be harvested when the foliage turns yellow and dries out. Early varieties are harvested 80 to 90 days after planting, mid-early varieties around 110 days, mid-late varieties around 120 days, and late varieties from 120 to over 150 days.
As for new potatoes, which have very thin skin and delicious flesh, they are harvested before maturity, 70 days after planting. Lift them just after flowering, around May-June.
Storage: after removing any damaged tubers, store the potatoes in a cool, dry, and dark place. In the presence of light, potatoes turn green and synthesise a toxic compound called solanine. Early harvest varieties should be consumed quickly. Storage potatoes can be stored for several months. The storage duration varies depending on their maturity: late varieties can be stored the longest.
Gardener's Tip: Grow potatoes as part of crop rotation as they are often considered a cleansing crop. The hilling and root development leave the soil clean and loose after harvest. They also appreciate the company of legumes (beans, broad beans, peas).
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Harvest
Plant habit
Foliage
Planting and care
Planting: Potatoes need a light, deep, and rich soil. Choose a sunny location. Add well-rotted compost in the previous autumn, by scratching it to a depth of 5 cm (2in), after loosening the soil. Planting takes place under shelter in February-March for early varieties. For other varieties, plant them from mid-March to May depending on the climate. Wait until the soil is at least 10°C (50°F). The flowering of lilac is often a sign to start planting. Plant several varieties in your vegetable garden to vary the pleasures!
Loosen the soil deeply and form rows 10 cm (4in) deep, spaced 70 cm (28in) apart. Place the tubers, sprouts facing upwards, every 40 cm (16in) or 30 cm (12in) for early varieties. Cover with fine soil. When the plants reach 15 cm (6in), mound up by bringing fine soil to the base of the stems, to a height of 20 cm (8in). Mounding up will promote the formation of tubers and water drainage. You can mound them up again a month later. Mulch at the base of the plants with thin successive layers of grass clippings mixed if possible with dead leaves. This protection, which keeps the soil moist, also limits weed growth.
Potato cultivation does not require watering, except in case of extreme heat. In that case, water the base of the plant without wetting the foliage to prevent the onset of fungal diseases.
Diseases and pests: Potatoes, like tomatoes, are susceptible to blight. This is a fungal disease caused by the Phytophthora infestans fungus. Blight develops in warm and humid weather. Small spots appear, white on the underside of the leaves and brown on the top. As a preventive measure, here are some tips to limit the risk of blight:
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Do not grow several plants of the Solanaceae family (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, chili peppers, etc.) on adjacent rows, as they are susceptible to the same diseases.
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In terms of crop rotation, wait 4 years before growing another Solanaceae plant in the same location.
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Space the plants, both within and between rows, to promote air circulation and prevent rapid disease spread.
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If you need to water, do not wet the foliage.
Harvest can also be affected by the Colorado potato beetle, a beetle of the order Coleoptera. You will recognise it by its yellow head and its yellow and black striped body. The best solution, although a bit time-consuming, is to remove them as they appear. As a preventive measure, sow blue flax seeds between your rows of potatoes. Sow from April to June in shallow furrows. Besides its repellent effect against Colorado potato beetles, flax will brighten up your vegetable garden with its pretty little blue flowers. You can also interplant peas between your rows of potatoes.
Other planting methods: The detailed planting method above is the most common. Other methods exist, such as mulch planting and tower planting.
Mulch planting involves placing the tubers on the ground and covering them with a layer of mulch. This protection is added as the plant grows, ensuring that the tubers are always protected from light.
Tower planting or sack planting is practical for small spaces but requires regular watering. The tower can be constructed from various materials (wood, wire mesh, sack, tires, etc.). The tubers are placed on a bed of potting soil or compost. As the plant grows, it is covered with potting soil, leaving only the topmost leaves exposed, and so on until the top of the tower, allowing the tubers to form throughout the height of the container. Harvest when the foliage has withered.
Cultivation
Care
Intended location
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, the United Kingdom, Ireland, the Netherlands, etc.)
It will vary according to where you live:- In zones 9 to 10 (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), flowering will occur about 2 to 4 weeks earlier.
- In zones 6 to 7 (Germany, Poland, Slovenia, and lower mountainous regions), flowering will be delayed by 2 to 3 weeks.
- In zone 5 (Central Europe, Scandinavia), blooming will be delayed by 3 to 5 weeks.
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, United Kingdom, Ireland, Netherlands).
It will vary according to where you live:
- In Mediterranean zones (Marseille, Madrid, Milan, etc.), autumn and winter are the best planting periods.
- In continental zones (Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, etc.), delay planting by 2 to 3 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 2 to 4 weeks in autumn.
- In mountainous regions (the Alps, Pyrenees, Carpathians, etc.), it is best to plant in late spring (May-June) or late summer (August-September).
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
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