Rhododendron yakushimanum Djingestan
Rhododendron yakushimanum Djingestan
Rhododendron (x) yakushimanum Djingestan
Hybrid Rhododendron
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Description
Rhododendron 'Djingestan' is a collection variety for rhododendron enthusiasts. The flowers, clustered in dense groups that can contain up to 12 buds, bloom in bell-shaped flowers of an intense pink, evolving to lighter shades as they mature, with a beige throat and rays ranging from beige to buttery yellow. Each flower is adorned with dark red spots and a distinctive mark on the upper lip, around a bright red eye. It was honoured with a gold medal at "Rhodo Westerstede" in Germany, the largest rhododendron show in the world.
Rhododendrons are plants of the Ericaceae family, like heathers, mostly preferring lime-free, acidic soils and humid climates. Rhododendron yakushimanum 'Djingestan' was created by Hans Hachmann in 1998. This unique hybrid was unveiled to the public in 2014, a decade after the death of its creator. Resulting from the cross-breeding between the little-known hybrids Amorette and Sirtaki, it presents fascinating characteristics, with chameleon flowers and attractive leaves, suggesting a heritage of wild rhododendrons and yakushimanum varieties.
'Djingestan' forms a dense bush, with a rounded habit of about 1.30 to 1.50 m in height and 1 to 1.30 m in width at maturity. The evergreen leaves are leathery, short, broadly elliptical, medium green and matt. This rhododendron grows moderately into a slender shrub with a flat top. The open bell-shaped flowers appear early in the season, from the first half of May until early June, unless the flowers and buds are damaged by heavy rain.
Like all yakushimanum hybrids, affectionately nicknamed 'yak rhodos' by specialists, Rhododendron 'Djingestan' is quite hardy down to -15°C or even -20°C. Even though they prefer a semi-shaded position, these hybrids can tolerate sun as long as it is not scorching and their roots remain cool. 'Djingestan', in a slightly shaded area, pairs well with ferns, which bring a delicate texture and contrast with the robust leaves of the rhododendron, while hostas, particularly those with bluish or variegated leaves, offer an interesting colour contrast. Also consider Pieris, Japanese Maples, and Heathers. Growing in a container requires regular watering with lime-free water, and applications of specific fertiliser for ericaceous plants.
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Planting and care
Plant Rhododendron yakushimanum 'Djingestan' in partial shade, sheltered from cold, drying winds, in moist, humus-bearing, light soil, with an acidic or neutral tendency. Like all ericaceous plants, it cannot tolerate chalky soils, nor heavy, waterlogged soils in winter. If the soil remains moist in summer, this rhododendron will also tolerate a non-scorching sun exposure.
Dig a hole with a volume three times larger than the pot. Soak the root ball in water (non-chalky) and plant the shrub at collar level, in a mixture composed of 1/4 peat, leaf mould, gravel or pozzolana, and loam. Water generously and keep the soil moist in summer. The root system of Azaleas and Rhododendrons is quite shallow, making them susceptible to long periods of drought. That is why a soil enriched with humus and abundant watering during dry spells are recommended. Furthermore, this root system is not very strong, which is why it is essential to lighten heavy soils with draining materials (gravel, pozzolana, clay balls) at planting time. Apply a mulch of shredded pine bark at the base of the shrub every spring to keep the soil moist while maintaining an acidic pH.
Maintenance consists of cutting off faded flowers in summer and cleaning out dead branches. Azaleas and Rhododendrons can sometimes be attacked by vine weevils, which eat the edges of leaves and rootlets, as well as by the famous rhododendron lace bug, which does not often cause severe damage. Effective organic solutions exist today against vine weevils. Yellowing of leaves (chlorosis) in Rhododendron indicates poor absorption of iron in the soil and causes premature death of the plant. While chalky soil is often the cause, poorly drained soil or a root ball planted too deeply can also explain the phenomenon.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, the United Kingdom, Ireland, the Netherlands, etc.)
It will vary according to where you live:- In zones 9 to 10 (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), flowering will occur about 2 to 4 weeks earlier.
- In zones 6 to 7 (Germany, Poland, Slovenia, and lower mountainous regions), flowering will be delayed by 2 to 3 weeks.
- In zone 5 (Central Europe, Scandinavia), blooming will be delayed by 3 to 5 weeks.
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, United Kingdom, Ireland, Netherlands).
It will vary according to where you live:
- In Mediterranean zones (Marseille, Madrid, Milan, etc.), autumn and winter are the best planting periods.
- In continental zones (Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, etc.), delay planting by 2 to 3 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 2 to 4 weeks in autumn.
- In mountainous regions (the Alps, Pyrenees, Carpathians, etc.), it is best to plant in late spring (May-June) or late summer (August-September).
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
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