Clematis Blue Eyes
Clematis Blue Eyes
Clematis Blue Eyes
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Description
Clematis 'Blue Eyes' is a recent variety of climbing clematis that blooms with an abundance of single star-shaped flowers in an uncommon light lavender-blue colour, turning slightly pinkish-purple in the middle as they age. They open successively, like blue-eyed winks, illuminating the darkest corners of the garden. This deciduous climber blooms twice, first in spring and then again in early autumn. With a compact habit and medium size, it is ideal for small spaces. You can also plant it in a pot or container. Hardy and easy to grow, it thrives in rich and well-drained soil, in full sun or partial shade. The key is to protect its base by keeping it in shade.
The 'Blue Eyes' cultivar is an English creation from 1999 by Ken Pyne. This deciduous climber belongs to the Ranunculaceae family. Like most of its cousins, this clematis prefers light, deep, moist, and fertile soil that is preferably neutral. It enjoys a sunny or partially shaded position, with its base always in shade. It can withstand cold temperatures and is not afraid of frost. However, it does not tolerate stagnant humidity, so the substrate must be well-draining and watering should be moderate (if necessary, during the first year). It can be grown in a container if the pot is large enough (minimum 60cm (24in) in diameter).
'Blue Eyes' can reach a height of 2.5m (8ft) and a width of 1m (3ft). It is a Group 2 clematis, meaning it has large flowers and blooms in spring, with a second flowering in autumn. This variety produces a mass of flowers for 4 months. The previous year's stems will bear the spring flowers from May to June. These flowers typically have 6 to 8 petals and reach a diameter of 6 to 10cm (2 to 4in). The late summer flowering (carried by the current year's branches) occurs in August-September. The flowers, now single stars, display the same colours that give them a piquant charm. They reveal a pure white stamen heart with sulphur yellow tips. Afterwards, fruits appear, decorating the foliage until winter. The deciduous and bright green leaves are composed of 3 to 5 leaflets. They are carried by voluble petioles called tendrils that twine around their support.
It will look wonderful in a container with a trellis to support it. It will flower for a long time, even in partial shade. Place some spring bulbs or a geranium at its base and enjoy the show with minimal maintenance. If you have a larger space, this non-invasive clematis can weave its way up a bamboo teepee or column, adding verticality to a vibrant flower bed. Plant it against a backdrop of shrubs with purple foliage, such as cotinus or elderberry, to enhance its light colour.
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Clematis Blue Eyes in pictures
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Botanical data
Clematis
Blue Eyes
Ranunculaceae
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
Plant in spring or autumn. It prefers moderately moist but not waterlogged soil that is deep, well-cultivated, drained, and rich. Plant at a depth of 5cm (2in), with the root ball placed diagonally or even lying on the ground. The head should be in the sun (or partial shade) and the base in the shade. You can place a flat tile in front of the stump or use ground cover plants to provide the necessary shade. Cover the base with a small mound of soil to encourage new shoots. After planting, cut the stems back to 30cm (12in) from the base, above a pair of buds.
Train them loosely to help the plant cling on its own.
Maintenance pruning should be done after flowering (in midsummer) to remove faded flowers and shorten the stems that have bloomed. This will help the plant to produce new shoots for a second flowering. More vigorous pruning can be done in spring to cut back certain stems more severely, but not necessarily every year.
Keep an eye out for pests such as aphids, slugs, and snails.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, the United Kingdom, Ireland, the Netherlands, etc.)
It will vary according to where you live:- In zones 9 to 10 (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), flowering will occur about 2 to 4 weeks earlier.
- In zones 6 to 7 (Germany, Poland, Slovenia, and lower mountainous regions), flowering will be delayed by 2 to 3 weeks.
- In zone 5 (Central Europe, Scandinavia), blooming will be delayed by 3 to 5 weeks.
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, United Kingdom, Ireland, Netherlands).
It will vary according to where you live:
- In Mediterranean zones (Marseille, Madrid, Milan, etc.), autumn and winter are the best planting periods.
- In continental zones (Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, etc.), delay planting by 2 to 3 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 2 to 4 weeks in autumn.
- In mountainous regions (the Alps, Pyrenees, Carpathians, etc.), it is best to plant in late spring (May-June) or late summer (August-September).
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
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