Dahlia Little Robert
Dahlia Little Robert
Dahlia Little Robert
Decorative dahlia
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This plant carries a 6 months recovery warranty
More information
We guarantee the quality of our plants for a full growing cycle, and will replace at our expense any plant that fails to recover under normal climatic and planting conditions.
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Description
The Decorative Dahlia 'Little Robert' is a medium-sized variety, particularly generous with flowers and which exudes undeniable charm. From July to October, it produces very dense heads (flowers), of medium size, in a magenta colour. Its compact development allows it to be grown just as well in a container on a terrace, as within a flower bed in a garden. Its sturdy stems allow for the creation of superb cut flower arrangements to decorate the interior of the house. The frost-sensitive tubercles must be overwintered under shelter in autumn to be replanted in spring and produce a new young plant.
The Dahlia is part of the vast Asteraceae family, which encompasses more than 1600 genera including both vegetable plants (like artichokes), and ornamental herbaceous plants (Centaureas) and even a few (rare) woody species. Originating from warm zones ranging from Mexico to Colombia, the Dahlia genus brings together several dozen wild species and nearly 57,000 horticultural varieties, proof of its immense success since its introduction to France at the beginning of the 19th century. To facilitate their identification, the RHS (Royal Horticultural Society) has divided dahlias into 15 categories according to the shape of their flowers: cactus, pompon, star, anemone… 'Little Robert' belongs to group 5, that of decorative dahlias, although some classify it rather in the very close group 7, that of pompons. As with all Asteraceae, which were formerly called "Compositae", the "flower" is in fact an inflorescence, more precisely a head, formed of small fertile central flowers surrounded by sterile ligulate flowers, often mistaken for petals.
In spring, the Dahlia 'Little Robert' develops from its tubercle, a true nutritional reserve which allows it to withstand winter in very mild climates. The growth is then rapid and forms a clump which becomes denser if the main stem is pinched to encourage the development of lateral buds. The stems, hollow although relatively robust, then become more ramified, allowing the plant to reach approximately 50 cm in width by 80 cm in height in full flowering. The foliage, medium to dark green, is formed of pinnate leaves comprising 3 to 5 elliptical leaflets. This dark background perfectly highlights the inflorescences which are staggered from July to October, especially if faded flowers are regularly removed. The medium-sized heads generally measure 8 cm in diameter, sometimes up to 10 cm, and display a subtle hue, predominantly magenta, with the base of the ligules lighter and the tip more intense. The centre, consisting of ligules tightly packed against each other, only reveals their darker tip, and thus forms a darker zone which enhances the entire head. Very graphic, it appeals as much for its perfect geometric shape as for its refined colour.
'Little Robert' will thrive in a well-sunny spot, in slightly cool, but well-drained soil, at the heart of a romantically-inspired flower bed. You will create a superb scene by positioning it in front of a plant of Gypsophila paniculata 'Bristol Fairy', which countless miniature white flowers will perfectly complement the highly structured heads of your Dahlia. Furthermore, you can happily combine them in a vase to form a cut flower arrangement with a wholly romantic grace. In the same spirit, Gauras, which flowers are adorned with the lightness of butterflies, will cohabit perfectly with 'Little Robert'. If, on the contrary, you prefer to rely on strong contrasts, then choose a bright yellow Rudbeckia which will add a touch of pep to your scene.
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Botanical data
Dahlia
Little Robert
Asteraceae
Decorative dahlia
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
Dahlia 'Little Robert' is easy to to grow in all regions. Foran abundant flowering, it is good to follow a few simple rules: plant the tubercles in full sun after the last frosts; rich, cool, well-drained soils are perfect. However, stagnant moisture would encourage the tubercles to rot. Do not hesitate to amend the soil with compost and sand if needed. Work the soil deeply and enrich it, for example, with ground horn or dried blood. Place your tubercle and crumble the soil well to backfill without air pockets. Your dahlia should be covered with about 6 cm of soil. At the end of planting, water thoroughly once and then repeat this watering regularly for the first six weeks to help with rooting.
Dahlias are sensitive to cold and need to be overwintered. In November, the first frosts blacken the foliage; this is the time to lift them. Dig up the tubercles carefully. Remove as much soil as possible. Allow the foliage to dry so the tubercles can replenish their reserves. Then cut the stems to 10 cm. Spread your bulbs in a crate on newspaper. Store them in a frost-free, dry, cool, and dark place, such as a frost-free garage or an attic. In southern regions, near the coast, experiencing only a few frosty days per year, it is possible to leave them in place. In this case, simply cover the soil with a carpet of leaves or straw for protection.
This Dahlia, with its hollow stems, is still sensitive to strong winds or heavy rain. To overcome this drawback, you can stake it, but, you must admit, it is not very aesthetic. On the other hand, by pinching the stems early or removing the axial flower buds, you will spread the habit of the plant, which will offer more resistance to bad weather. At the same time, you thus duct the influx of sap to a single flower, which will become larger and stronger.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, the United Kingdom, Ireland, the Netherlands, etc.)
It will vary according to where you live:- In zones 9 to 10 (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), flowering will occur about 2 to 4 weeks earlier.
- In zones 6 to 7 (Germany, Poland, Slovenia, and lower mountainous regions), flowering will be delayed by 2 to 3 weeks.
- In zone 5 (Central Europe, Scandinavia), blooming will be delayed by 3 to 5 weeks.
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, United Kingdom, Ireland, Netherlands).
It will vary according to where you live:
- In Mediterranean zones (Marseille, Madrid, Milan, etc.), autumn and winter are the best planting periods.
- In continental zones (Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, etc.), delay planting by 2 to 3 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 2 to 4 weeks in autumn.
- In mountainous regions (the Alps, Pyrenees, Carpathians, etc.), it is best to plant in late spring (May-June) or late summer (August-September).
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.