Peonies: planting, pruning and care

Description and botany

Genus Paeonia, comprising 33 deciduous species, is primarily native to temperate Eurasia, with two species native to North America. Peonies, formerly placed with Ranunculaceae — family that includes anemone and buttercup — are now recognised as their own family, Paeonaceae. Among them, Chinese peonies (Paeonia lactiflora) stand out for their major contribution to the diversity of herbaceous cultivars, while suffruticosa, delavayi and lutea varieties have broadened the range of shrub peonies.

These plants are characterised by a woody stump with fleshy, robust roots, ensuring remarkable longevity, sometimes spanning centuries. Deciduous foliage is made up of toothed or lobed leaflets, giving arborecent species a particular elegance, and some, such as Paeonia tenuifolia, bear finely divided leaves. From spring, peonies announce their awakening with the opening of large red buds, emerging from the ground for herbaceous types or on shoots for shrub types, revealing an initially mahogany foliage that opens to a vibrant green.

In autumn, herbaceous peonies can offer a display of purples, ochres and bronzes, especially after a sunny, moderately dry summer. It is nevertheless advisable to accompany these garden queens with other flowers to maintain visual interest until leaf fall in September.

Flower buds, solitary and conspicuous at stem tips, herald a flowering period that scents the surrounding air for around two weeks, and even up to a month for Itoh hybrids. Each flower at full bloom, however, lasts only one to two days, providing a fleeting moment of pure beauty.

Paeonia officinalis, a European species, is notable for its single, vivid red flowers. Highly fragrant, these flowers have more than five rounded petals, evoking the look of large wild-rose blooms with short yellow stamens. In double-flowered varieties, these stamens are replaced by wavy filaments, creating a most captivating visual spectacle. Paeonia officinalis hides between two and five large ovaries which, after fertilisation, give rise to stout, hairy follicles. Note that seeds are toxic and large enough to be noticeable.

Pollination of peonies, essential to reproduction, benefits greatly from bee activity. Many cultivars, notably double- or triple-flowered types, display an impressive mass of transformed stamens — either frilled filaments in varieties such as Paeonia lactiflora ‘Bowl of Beauty’, or extra petals in specimens such as Paeonia officinalis ‘Rubra Plena’ or Paeonia lactiflora ‘Felix Crousse’. These transformations provide a range of colours from delicate gradations to distinctive purplish hues, with flower sizes from 5 to 30 cm in diameter. Some, particularly among shrub peonies, can become so heavy that they lean or even flop to the ground, recalling the morphological diversity of Dahlias.

Flowering often requires patience and time, usually two to three years after planting to allow solid establishment. Once well rooted, peonies can bloom for up to a century, offering up to 60 flowers per plant. Shrub varieties require an even longer period, around seven years, to reveal their full splendour, which explains price increases with plant age. When purchasing, pay attention to rootstock size and number of eyes or branches, which indicate plant age and maturity.

Cut peonies make magnificent additions to bouquets, pairing perfectly with lilacs and campanulas, and should ideally be gathered in the morning at the coloured-bud stage.

Beyond their beauty, Paeonia officinalis possesses medicinal properties, reflecting its Greek name “Paeonia”, meaning “salutary”. The name may also derive from Paeon, a physician of ancient Greece. Pliny the Elder already considered the peony the oldest cultivated flower, testimony to its historical and cultural importance.

Some peony flowers: Paeonia lactiflora ‘Black Beauty’, Paeonia itoh ‘Julia Rose’, Paeonia lactiflora ‘Bowl of Beauty’ and Paeonia delavayi lutea

Main peony varieties

Herbaceous varieties with single flowers

Herbaceous varieties with double flowers

Shrub varieties

Paeonia lobata Sunshine

Arguably the best of varieties derived from botanical species, this rare perennial in cultivation produces single, globose, sparkling flowers of a rare, brilliant red, a light currant red tinged with orange and further enhanced by a large centre of golden stamens. Its luminous flowering makes a beautiful backdrop in a mixed border or a large rock garden.

• Flowering time May, June
• Height at maturity 85 cm

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Paeonia officinalis Mollis

Its deciduous foliage, green tinged with purple, provides a setting for beautiful single, cup-shaped flowers of a true bright pink with no blue tones, opening to a centre of deep yellow stamens. Flowering can sometimes repeat in July. Plant in sun or part shade, in calcareous, fertile, friable soil that remains cool.

• Flowering time July, August
• Height at maturity 45 cm

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Paeonia tenuifolia

Very attractive fine foliage evoking fennel topped by beautiful cup-shaped, short-lived flowers of scarlet red. Deciduous foliage very dense and particularly fine, of a striking dark green. Grow in sun or part shade in a warm position, in moderately dry soil.

• Flowering time May
• Height at maturity 40 cm

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Paeonia lactiflora Bowl of Beauty

An excellent cut flower, this Japanese-type peony is composed of two rows of carmine-pink petals and a large yellow centre turning cream-white. Flowers measure up to 12 cm in diameter and are produced in clusters on stems.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 90 cm

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Paeonia lactiflora Do Tell

A particularly floriferous Japanese-form peony with upright stems speckled with red, topped by large solitary, single, elegant and fragrant flowers, 7–10 cm across. Pale pink corolla with a petaloid centre of lilac-rose that fades at the end of flowering.

• Flowering time June
• Height at maturity 80 cm

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Paeonia lactiflora Inspecteur Lavergne

A reliable old-fashioned peony with large pompon-like flowers of a deep carmine-pink, fairly pure, anemone-shaped, borne on sturdy stems with impeccable performance in garden and vase.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 80 cm

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Paeonia Itoh Julia Rose

Hybrid between a shrub peony and a herbaceous peony, characterised by vigorous growth and production of flowers similar to those of shrub varieties. Semi-double 16 cm flowers streaked with pink and apricot on a soft yellow ground, borne on sturdy stems.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 75 cm

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Paeonia suffruticosa Pink - Tree Peony

Shrub peony with solitary, double flowers 15–18 cm across, shaded tender pink with a vivid pink centre, set with yellow stamens. For a warm position protected from cold winds, in part shade or non-burning sun, in well-drained, rich, humus-rich, cool soil.

• Flowering time May, June
• Height at maturity 1,50 m

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Paeonia suffruticosa Lilac - Tree Peony

Shrub peony with solitary, semi-double, open cup-shaped flowers 18–25 cm, lilac-pink blotched with black and pale yellow stamens. Flowering from mid-May to mid-June.

• Flowering time June, July
• Height at maturity 1,50 m

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Paeonia suffruticosa Lu Mu Ying Yu - Tree Peony

Hybrid variety forming a bush at least 1.50 m in every direction, with exquisite, scented flowers reaching 20 cm in diameter, fully double, whose crinkled petals range from tender green to cream-white. Sculptural in a border or as a specimen, this rare variety also offers excellent cut flowers. Suited to any rich, fresh soil. Sensitive to late frosts.

• Flowering time May, June
• Height at maturity 1,50 m

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Paeonia suffruticosa Wu Jin Yao Hui - Tree Peony

A sumptuous, floriferous and hardy shrub peony, suitable for beginner gardeners. The bush, of spreading habit, produces numerous rose-shaped, slightly scented flowers 16 cm wide, composed of multiple petals of a very dark red with a lustrous sheen. Give it a sunny position and a good, well-drained garden soil.

• Flowering time May
• Height at maturity 1,50 m

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Planting peonies

Where to plant peonies?

Peonies do not like being moved, so it is important to choose best possible spot so they are showcased and, above all, do not suffer from excess moisture or competition from other plants. Bear in mind you are planting for next two generations!

• Herbaceous peonies require sun or part-shade with heavy (clay) soil, rich, well drained but remaining cool in summer, neutral, slightly acidic or calcareous (ideal pH between 6 and 7). Growth is slow there but flowering is more spectacular than in dry soil. Very sandy, free-draining soil produces abundant foliage with few flowers. You can lighten soils that are too wet in winter by adding some compost or leaf mould or by planting on a raised mound.
• Itoh peonies prefer semi-shaded positions such as woodland edge or shelter of a hedge and also require rich, cool, deep and well-drained soil.
• Plant shrub peonies in a warm, west-facing position sheltered from severe frosts and cold winds. Choose a sunny but not scorching to lightly shaded spot (4–6 hours sun/day). Buds and young leaves are sensitive to late frosts.

Shrub peonies appreciate a rich, humus-bearing, deep, cool and well-drained soil and tolerate lime well. They dislike very heavy, waterlogged ground in winter. Slow-growing during first years, shrub peonies form a powerful, deep root system and produce few branches; it is only after 3–4, sometimes 5 years of cultivation that branching fills out and flowering becomes spectacular. Mature plants do not like being moved.

To learn more read Planting peonies: where, when and how? and How to have beautiful peonies in the garden?

When to plant?

Plant herbaceous peonies preferably in autumn so they have time to establish.
For shrub peonies, spring planting is preferable, especially if winters are severe.

How to plant?

This plant can be rather temperamental and sometimes takes a long time to flower.

• Dig a hole 40–50 cm deep.

To check whether soil drains adequately, dig a hole 30 cm deep and 20 cm wide and fill with water. After one hour, water should have completely drained away.

• Place a 10 cm layer of gravel and lighten soil with coarse sand if necessary.
• Add well-rotted manure or blood meal to planting hole to stimulate flowering.

For herbaceous peony, position the root crown (griffe) less than 3 cm deep and space plants 60 cm to 1 m apart.

Herbaceous peony roots (photo F. D. Richards – Flickr)

For shrub peony, do not hesitate to bury graft union 10 cm deep so scion can produce its own roots. Indeed, grafting onto herbaceous peony reduces longevity of shrub peony. Moreover, planting too shallowly encourages rootstock to sprout. However, follow same level as substrate if your plant is sold in a container.

• Replace soil and firm gently.
• Insert stakes such as hazel branches to support heavy flowers and mark planting location.
• Water generously.
• Avoid mulching with organic waste to prevent disease transmission. Instead plant low-competition groundcover such as hardy geranium or sedum.
• You can also grow peony in a pot; for this, consult our article: Shrub peonies in pots: how to grow them successfully?

Care

• Apply well‑rotted manure or blood meal each autumn 15 cm from base. Avoid fresh manure!
• If an exceptional frost damages shoots of tree peony, and if you have buried the graft union, cutting shoots back to ground level in April allows the framework to regrow within one year.
• In first years, water peony during dry spells, especially in spring before flowering.
• Cut off spent flowers to avoid exhausting plant with seed production.

• In general, herbaceous peony does not require clump division, unless flowering declines. Tree peony is not pruned or only very lightly (thin, crossing branches), to learn more, read our article “How to prune tree peonies?”
• Peonies are not very susceptible to disease except in case of excessive soil moisture (white rot) or airborne infection (grey mould, rust), particularly in herbaceous peonies. Cut diseased parts back to healthy tissue, spray Bordeaux mixture at 2% or horsetail decoction as a preventative and do not leave plant debris at base. Rose chafers sometimes eat flowers without serious consequences. Read also our article: Diseases and pests of shrub peonies.

→ Tree peony flowering little or not at all? Read our advice at: My tree peony is not flowering. Why?

Find also our advice in How to care for a tree peony throughout the seasons?

Clump of herbaceous peony in early spring

Propagation: dividing peonies

Tree peonies are generally grafted onto roots of herbaceous peonies because propagation by cuttings is not easy. It is a task for specialists. This propagation requires 2 to 3 years’ cultivation in a nursery, which explains their high cost.

Clump division is possible for herbaceous peonies and must be done if you relocate the plant, otherwise it may not flower again. Carry out in autumn or early spring.

Clump division

• Lift whole clump without damaging roots using a garden fork.
• Divide clump with a sharp knife, ensuring each division retains 3 to 5 roots and 3 to 5 eyes.
• Replant with eyes no more than 3 cm below surface.

→ Learn more in our tutorials : How to divide an herbaceous peony? and How to propagate the tree peony?

Uses and associations

Peonies used to be one of those plants that formed the backbone of a garden. Every garden, from the humblest to the most elaborate, proudly displayed in spring clumps covered in scented blooms that made their way into the house, keeping company in every bouquet with mauve lilac and blue campanulas. Japanese peonies fit perfectly into a mixed-border alongside timeless perennials such as columbines, delphiniums, campanulas, iris, alyssums, carnations, foxgloves, lupins or hellebores, or with ferns where the area is semi-shaded. Simply give them enough space so they do not compete. Only long-term container growing is not recommended, as their needs will not be met. Over time, peonies become majestic, multiply and flower ever more abundantly. They can also be planted at the foot of a shrub trained as a standard. As specimens, plant 3 plants spaced 60 to 100 cm apart for a spectacular effect.

An example of a planting combination: Paeonia lactiflora ‘Félix Crousse’, Geranium pratense ‘Mrs Kendall Clarke’, Shrub ‘Astronomia’, Geranium ‘Johnson’s Blue’ and Shrub ‘Munstead Wood’

The Itoh peony appreciates semi-shaded spots such as the edge of a copse or the shelter of a hedge. It is often planted in groups of three in a shrub or perennial border.

Botanical peonies (officinalis, tenuifolia, etc.) that favour warm situations can be placed on top of a large rockery, even a calcareous one, or else in a border or as specimens.

Place the tree peony as a specimen or framed by other plants depending on aspect, accompanied by ferns, rhododendrons, hydrangeas in semi-shade, or by iris, nepeta, foxgloves, lupins, daisies and shrubs in a sunny spot. Consider pairing plants that will take over flowering through summer such as Phlox paniculata, dahlias or asters.

Gwenaëlle gives other great pairing ideas in: Pairing tree peonies in a border.

An example of a combination in light shade and moist soil: Paeonia delavayi lutea (or, for a double-flowered variety, ‘Alice Harding’), Dryopteris affinis and Iris sibirica ‘Butter and Sugar’ (or a similar variety such as ‘Snow Queen’)

→ Discover more ideas for pairing peonies in our advice sheet!

Did you know?

Herbaceous peony (Paeonia lactiflora), cultivated for more than 1,000 years in the East, was only known in Europe at the end of the 18^th century, following a gift to Joséphine from the Emperor of China. The tree peony, also Asian, was not discovered by the West until a century later. There are also peonies native to the West, such as Paeonia officinalis, which the Greeks described as having great medicinal properties.