Rhododendron Lampion
Rhododendron Lampion
Rhododendron yakushimanum Lampion
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Description
Rhododendron 'Lampion' is a dwarf hybrid with a dense cushion-like, fairly flat shape, and has one of the earliest and most abundant flowering periods. During the winter months, it is covered in ornamental reddish-brown buds that bloom in spring into countless flowers gathered in corymbs, with an orangish-red colour that gradually lightens to salmon pink. A beloved bush, awarded in Düsseldorf in 1987, perfect for brightening up a shaded area in acid soil, even in a very small garden.
Rhododendrons are plants from the Ericaceae family, just like heathers, and they mostly prefer soil devoid of limestone, with an acidic tendency and humid climates. Rhododendron 'Lampion' forms a dense, rounded bush, reaching approximately 70 cm in height and 90 cm in width at maturity. Its growth is rather slow. Its small, evergreen, and leathery leaves have a glossy dark green colour, and are elliptical, covering the plant well. Flowering occurs in April. Grouped in corymbs, the reddish-brown flower buds open into large 10 cm wide funnel-shaped flowers, initially reddish salmon and then salmon pink.
Like all yakushimanum hybrids, affectionately nicknamed "rhodos yak" by specialists, Rhododendron 'Lampion' is hardy down to -15°C, and even -20°C. Although they prefer a semi-shaded exposure, these hybrids can tolerate the sun as long as it is not scorching (morning sun) and their base remains moist. 'Lampion', with its abundant and brightly coloured flowers, will easily adorn a small, slightly shaded space in the garden, alongside ferns, blue or variegated hostas, Pieris, Azaleas, and Japanese Maples, or other rhododendrons from the same group to create superb patchworks of textures and colours in spring. Growing in containers requires regular watering with non-limestone water, as well as specific fertiliser for acid soil plants.
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Planting and care
Plant Rhododendron 'Lampion' in partial shade, protected from cold and drying winds, in a moist, humus-bearing, light soil, with a tendency towards acidity (pH between 4.5 and 6). Like all acid soil plants, it does not tolerate limestone soils, drought, heatwaves, or heavy soils saturated with water in winter. If the soil remains moist in summer, this rhododendron can also tolerate non-scorching sun exposure.
Dig a hole three times the volume of the pot. Soak the root ball in non-limestone water and plant the bush at the neck level, in a mixture consisting of 1/4 organic matter, leaf compost, gravel or pumice, and loam. Water generously and keep the soil moist in summer. Azaleas and Rhododendrons have a shallow root system. As a result, they are sensitive to long periods of drought. That's why soil enriched with humus and abundant watering during dry periods is recommended. Moreover, this root system is not very strong, which is why it is essential to lighten heavy soils with draining materials (gravel, pumice, clay pellets) at planting. Apply a layer of shredded pine bark mulch at the base of the bush every spring to keep the soil moist while maintaining an acidic pH.
Maintenance consists of deadheading the flowers in summer and cleaning the bush of dead branches. Azaleas and Rhododendrons can sometimes be attacked by weevils that eat the edges of the leaves and rootlets, as well as by the famous 'rhododendron beetle' which does not usually cause significant damage. Effective organic solutions exist today against weevils. Yellowing of the leaves (chlorosis) in Rhododendron indicates poor assimilation of iron in the soil and causes premature death of the plant. While limestone (from the soil or irrigation water) is generally the cause, poorly drained soil or a deeply planted root ball can also explain the phenomenon.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, the United Kingdom, Ireland, the Netherlands, etc.)
It will vary according to where you live:- In zones 9 to 10 (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), flowering will occur about 2 to 4 weeks earlier.
- In zones 6 to 7 (Germany, Poland, Slovenia, and lower mountainous regions), flowering will be delayed by 2 to 3 weeks.
- In zone 5 (Central Europe, Scandinavia), blooming will be delayed by 3 to 5 weeks.
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, United Kingdom, Ireland, Netherlands).
It will vary according to where you live:
- In Mediterranean zones (Marseille, Madrid, Milan, etc.), autumn and winter are the best planting periods.
- In continental zones (Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, etc.), delay planting by 2 to 3 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 2 to 4 weeks in autumn.
- In mountainous regions (the Alps, Pyrenees, Carpathians, etc.), it is best to plant in late spring (May-June) or late summer (August-September).
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
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